Regaining My Sewing Power

Why does 2020 seem so long ago? Two years ago I was busy sanitizing groceries, making sourdough, homeschooling my child, etc. I always told myself that it was temporary, a couple weeks. I would get to sew “tomorrow” and tomorrow never came. The hobby that I enjoyed so much started to feel like another chore. It didn’t matter if I sewed something for myself, I was living in sweatpants. My sewing was consumed with masks, repairing masks, and the occasional make for my growing child. I was mentally exhausted. I didn’t realize that I was in ‘Groundhog Day’. Fast forward almost two years to the day and I decided that I was sick of feeling this way, I needed to think of something that would make me feel like myself, not something that I was sewing for someone else, just something for myself, that was NOT a mask.

I started with the Rain City Pattern Company Tight Tank with Heavy Rayon Spandex.

From there I moved on to a few new sports bras. I like the FREE Hyacinth Pattern from OhhhLulu. I used Tricot and Powernet and I added a band. Do you know what started to happen? Putting on something that was new, basic but new, gave me that quick boost of confidence that I forgot that I missed. It felt sooo good to wear something that wasn’t just that same pair of sweatpants. To be fair, I was alternating between two pairs of sweats.

Alas, the joyous spark was ignited. Then I started to think about what I could make that wasn’t so “casual”. At the same time Chalk & Notch released the Wren. I like that it is drafted for different cup sizes and has a shirt and dress within the same pattern. I used Rayon. One technique that I always use is French Seams . I love the finish of them. Yes, it takes longer but I do sew for longevity and it is worth it.

Next on my list is:

  • This gorgeous top from True Bias. It’s called the Roscoe Blouse and includes a dress in the pattern also made by Jasmine Macias, made in Rayon

I hope this blog inspires some of you to also reignite the creativity. I didn’t realize how much was missing til I started it again. What is something on your list to make?

Melissa

Free Sewing Patterns Review

During the month of March we focused on free patterns. We find that free patterns can be a blessing and a curse. It gives you the ability to try out the drafting and instructions of a specific designer. Overall, these patterns have had positive feedback. We look forward to adding more to this blog in the future.

PATTERN: Hey June Durango

FABRIC: Heavy Rayon Spandex in Emerald

“This was my first make from Hey June, the instructions were clear but the armholes were too large so I had to modify them. I’m excited to try a paid pattern from them.”

PATTERN: George & Ginger 40k Sway

FABRICS: Left – Pixlefly Eden AGF Cotton Spandex. Right – Oatmeal Ribbing

“I loved the 40K sway, the instructions were super straightforward and it even included hip and bust grading mark points which I thought was really great especially for a free pattern. It came together in less than an hour and looked great”

PATTERN: DIBY Anything but Basic Tee

FABRIC: Left – Striped Away Sky AGF Cotton Spandex Right – Light Gray Rayon Spandex

PATTERN: Grainline Studios Hemlock Tee

FABRIC: Chora Winds AGF Cotton Spandex

“This boxy tee had great instructions and the sizing was accurate”

PATTERN: Striped Swallow Cloud 9

FABRICS: Top – Royal Blue Rayon Spandex Bottom – Foliage Escape Lapis AGF Cotton Spandex

PATTERN: Violette Field Thread London Dress

FABRIC: Roses & Letters, Raspberry Rose, Tranquil Waters

“I LOVED it! And plan to make more! My daughters love them and won’t stop wearing them”

PATTERN: Misusu Rowan Tee

FABRIC: Gecko Trails AGF Cotton Spandex

“Loved the Rowan tee for ease, quick sew, and projector friendly”

PATTERN: Hey June Racerback Dress

FABRIC: Fields of Silene AGF Cotton Spandex

“The pattern is pretty awesome and turned out super cute. I’ve had the pattern for like 3 years and has been on the top of my list but this is when I finally made it”

PATTERN: Little Lizard King Galena

FABRIC: Serein Branchlet AGF Cotton Spandex

“I’m all about the puff sleeves, and with a half circle skirt, it gives twirl while also not using up so much fabric like a full circle skirt. I can see myself using it again!”

PATTERN: Swoon Dakota Tablet Clutch

FABRICS: Endless Paradise Denim and Breezy Blossom Lemonade

PATTERN: Bagstock Designs Sunshine Crossbody Pouch

FABRIC: Snowing Night, Tracery Floralia, and Tender Green

Happy Sewing

Rainbow Skirt Tutorial

Once Phee Fabrics got mustard rayon spandex in, I knew it was time to make some rainbow skirts for my nieces and daughter. So I ordered the following 13 oz rayon spandex colors, 1/2 yard each:

Cherry, Mustard, Olive, Royal Blue, Orchid

If you’re planning on making as many skirts as I did, and want to have matching waistbands, I suggest ordering 1 yard of the heathered charcoal. I used some oatmeal and light heathered gray ribbing that I already had for 2 of the skirts.

Start with a circle skirt pattern, and remove the seam allowance (this will most likely be the side seam). Your pattern piece is 1/4th of your full circle, so it needs to be broken into thirds. I found this easiest to fold the pattern piece as seen below.

Cut one piece of the 3 sections off from the pattern, and that is your pattern piece. You’ll need to add your seam allowance for piecing the panels together, I did this when cutting my pieces out of the fabric with a clear ruler.

Cut two panels from each color and piece together in rainbow order.

You’ll end up with 2 halves of the skirt, front and back. Sew them together to form your circle skirt.

For the waistband, I created a foldover yoga waistband. What’s funny, is that in all this, I finally learned how to use the rolled hem on my serger. I probably could have removed the second needle, but I left it in place, so it looks more like a narrow serged edge.

My Nieces and daughter will love these super soft colorful skirts so much, I can’t wait to see their faces!

The Sly Little Fox and How She Got Pockets

I made the mistake of scrolling through my patterns and letting my 3 1/2-year-old daughter see the Stitch Upon a Time Riding Hood. She typically doesn’t request items for herself but immediately claimed this pattern as her own and decided she neeeeeded one. I’ve always wanted to make a cute animal poncho for her so between the Cozy French Terry from Phee Fabrics and the Riding Hood poncho. I decided it would be the perfect opportunity to ease into the fall with a piece of warm outerwear.

PheeFTFoxLogo-24

Here in beautiful Northern California it may be Fall with a slight crispness in the morning air but during the day it’s still over 80°. I really feel that this foxy little hood is going to be perfect to toss on in the mornings while loading in the car seat and quick to toss in the backpack after it starts to warm up.

I already had my heart set on the Riding Hood but also wanted a fox theme. I searched for the perfect pattern for the ears and tail since I lack creativity when it comes to doing things freehand. I ultimately decided on the Twig and Tail Animal Hooded Scarf and modified the Stitch Upon A Time hood to accommodate ears. For the white I used the Phee Fabrics White Rayon Spandex. I made the tail removable for ease of using the potty.

I thought I had hit the jackpot when it all pulled together so I rushed in my excitement to have Z try it on!!!

“Does it have pockets?”

“No.”

“I can take this off now.”

… the sound of dreams deflating …

PheeFTFoxLogo-15

This exchange left me debating. Do I add pockets, lose this battle and risk finding rocks, Legos, acorns or who knows what in my dryer? Or do I win this battle by adding pockets and have my girl love it? Yep, there was no way out of adding pockets!!!

PheeFTFoxLogo-3

Since this Poveglia COZY French Terry from Phee Fabrics is already so soft and warm I opted for only one layer and hemmed around the bottom making pockets per the pattern instructions, not really an option so I had to improvise! I went ahead with the pocket facing and used my Cricut to cut a stencil for a sweet little heart pocket adding a girlie touch.

Once those magic pockets were added it was LOVE!!! Snaps make this easy on & off for her small hands and the ease of getting in & out of the car seat so much nicer on my back!

I think this is a winner!!!

The Month of Free Patterns

During the month of September 2019 the team at Phee focused on free patterns. The only rules were that the pattern had to be free and utilize Phee Fabrics.

Here’s the thing, the team at Phee works extremely hard behind the scenes to bring everyone all the best of their work. Now, we know the quality at Phee is consistent, so you know what you’re going to get. Pattern designers work hard also and a lot of designers draft with their body shapes in mind and adjust the sizing based on their size block. There are very few designers that take multiple body shapes into account. One of the most challenging things for new and frustrating for experienced sewists is to adjust a pattern to their body. Dealing with an awkward fit and then comes in the concept of making a “muslin”. Typically muslin is a type of fabric but it can also be used to refer to the first one you make, a trial of sorts. Through multiple places I see people asking about using a different fabric as a “muslin”, a cheaper or different base. That will result in a different fit (be forewarned). Another thing that draws people in is FREE! The idea of getting something for free is appealing, it gives you a chance to try a pattern designer before purchasing other patterns from them. These are some of the free patterns our dedicated sewists have worked up for you.

Crystal is wearing the Halla Slim fit Dolman with the Poveglia Ribbing. She made a size 6/8 but says that it’s loose and should have made the size 2/4
Jessica is wearing the Harper Cardigan by Sinclair Patterns with the Light Gray Heathered Cozy French Terry.
Stephanie is wearing the Peg Legs from Pattern for Pirates in olive supplex
Mala is wearing the Magnolia Tee by Sonia Estep Designs in Dark Bisque Rayon Spandex. She graded from a size 22 to a size 26
Elizabeth is wearing a Durango Tank by Hey June in the 13 oz. Cherry Rayon Spandex
Addy is wearing the Verona dress by Little Lizard King in Orchid Rayon Spandex. This pattern is drafted for woven but was made in the same size. While slightly larger it will be good for layering a shirt and/or leggings underneath, as well as next spring/summer.
Joelle is wearing the Thankful top by George & Ginger. This is not available on their website and only can be found in the files of their facebook group.

The slouchy beanie was a free tutorial by Bernina
Due to the ease of the pattern and not wanting the shoulders way too wide, she made a size 8, graded to 10 waist and 6 hips. 

Removed an inch above bust and an inch above hem. Size 8 sleeve, removed .5” in the head and an inch at the short sleeve mark.
Nicole is wearing the Agnes Dress by Halla using the navy rayon spandex

If you have any other free patterns that you have used with Phee please email us at customer.service@pheefabrics.com to be added to this blog

GreenStyle Open Back Pullover

Do you ever look at patterns and think, I really like that, except for…?  That’s how I felt about the GreenStyle Open Back Pullover.  I like the open back, I like that there’s a deeper scooped back, as well as a closed back option.  I like that it can be sleeveless, or have long or short sleeves.  I like that there is a crew neck, as well as a scoop neck, along with a hood option.  Most people love “hoodies” and banded sweatshirts.  I am not one of those people.

Banded bottom shirts are not a good look on me.  I own one banded bottom shirt, and it hangs unworn in my closet.  I’ve tried to wear it, it looked cute on the hanger when I bought it years ago, but on me, it looks like a maternity top.  If I were an expectant Mama I would wear it and look adorable.  But since I am a Grandma and long past the age of having babies, it’s just not the look I am going for!

Luckily, it is super easy to hack the Open Back Pullover to not need a band.  You are going to want to pay attention to your hip measurement.  Make sure you measure the widest/largest part of your hips and booty.  If it falls within the measurements for the size you are making, you’re good to go.  But if it’s at the upper end or bigger than the size for your bust and waist, you will want to grade your pattern out to a larger size, starting at the waist.   Then use a ruler to add 4″ of length at the bottom of the front and back pattern pieces.

Follow the pattern tutorial, (it’s a pretty easy pattern) and instead of sewing on a band at the bottom, simply pin and press the hem up 3/4″ and zigzag or coverstitch to finish the hem.

OB frontOB side

I like that I can wear a regular bra with the high scoop back, and wear it like any other top.  The low scoop back would really show off a cute Power Sports Bra and be fun for yoga class or working out.  I thought about using powernet in the scoop opening, (there is a pattern piece for that), but the open back is just the right amount of sexy.  It would also be fun to use powernet as the upper back pattern piece for an even airier feel.

OB close

I made my top out of Circular Knit, and would totally consider a long sleeved, closed back version in Rayon Spandex or Ribbing for cooler days.  If you’re looking for a more traditional hoodie feel, Cozy French Terry would be so soft and plush!  Supplex would give a more athletic feel, and would coordinate nicely with Super G’s or Stride Athletic Tights.  I’m glad I gave the Open Back Pullover a shot.  It’s a simple, slightly sexy 😉 , comfortable look.

My shorts are the Brassie Joggers, made out of Supplex.  I purchased all my fabric from Phee Fabrics.

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  This means that at no extra cost to you, I may receive a small commission/credit if you purchase through my links.  As always, I only give my honest opinion.  After all, my blogpost represents me! 🙂  Thank you for reading and sharing my love of sewing, patterns, awesome fabric, and pattern hacking. ❤