Tag: Patterns for Pirates

Stretch Twill Shorts Comparison

Don’t we all love those comparison blogs? A chance to see a couple different patterns worked up in the same fabric base.  So, Amie, Jessica and Melissa  sewed up different women’s shorts patterns all in Stretch Twill. 

To read about finishing techniques or watch finishing videos, click the buttons below

Finishing Techniques
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Sonia Estep Designs Bahama Bottoms

Sizes:  Women’s 00-30

Size Made: 8

Drafted For:  5′ 5″

Pattern Options:  drawstring, four inseam lengths, front patch pockets, and back patch pockets with flap.

Fabric used:  White Stretch Twill

Comments:  If you are nervous about sewing wovens or are a beginner this is a great pattern to start with. The pockets aren’t mandatory and the Phee Fabrics blogs and YouTube channel has amazing techniques to help along the way, like French Seams!

Violette Field Threads Lilly (misses)

Sizes:  0-16

Size Made:  16

Drafted For:  5′ 6″

Pattern Options:  high rise, regular rise, low rise, faux flat elastic front

Intended Fit:  Slim fit, and designed to hit top of mid thigh.

Options Made:  Regular rise

Fabric used:  Charcoal stretch twill

Comments:  I love that this pattern had a lining sewn into it. In the construction steps, it mentions that 2 sets of mirrored front pieces are needed, 2 main, and 2 lining (4 total).   Since this pattern is in Misses sizes, it is not very inclusive.  The print guide, cut chart, and instructions are limited. 

Fit:  I was concerned that these would be too tight, and not fit with them being “slim fit so I reduced the seam allowance by 1/8″. This has made them more of a relaxed fit. The pattern calls for 1″ elastic but I used 1.5″. For the next pair I’m going to attempt making the inseam shorter.

Striped Swallow Coachella

Pattern Options:  Relaxed fit, Slim fit, 2″ inseam, 4″inseam, low rise, mid rise, high rise, trim and bias tape options.

Intended Fit:  Relaxed or Slim Fit

Options Made:  Slim Fit, 2″ inseam, mid rise

Fabric Used:  Coral Stretch Twill

Comments:  I love this designer’s patterns. There is no cut layout, all pages are printed landscape, make sure to check your settings in case you need to change them. The pattern does call for trim, which I left off because of them being dual purpose.  The problem is that I kind of had to wing it because there are no instructions on how to sew these shorts up with no trim. I want to try the relaxed version next time, and see how that compares to the slim fit version.

Made By Rae Rose Pants/Shorts

Sizes:  Women’s sizes XXS – XL, Plus Sizes 1-5 

Size Made:  XS

Drafted For:  5′ 6″

Pattern Options:  High-waisted pants and shorts sewing pattern with slash pockets and a pleated or gathered front. The front waist is flat while the back waist is elasticized. Choose from three lengths: long, cropped, or shorts

Options Made:  High waisted shorts with pleats and slash pockets

Fabric Used:  Navy Stretch Twill

Comments: Sizing is true to size. I did take a little extra seam allowance to slim them down through the hips and thigh.

Made For Mermaids Women’s Lucy Shorts

Sizes:  Based on colors

Size Made:  Green

Drafted For:  5′ 5″

Pattern Options:  3.5″ curved and straight hems, 4.5″ curved and straight hems, trim and bias tape options.

Intended Fit:  Relaxed low rise shorts

Options Made: 3 1/2in curved hem

Fabric Used:  Black Stretch Twill

Comments:  Easy to follow instructions. Quick sew. These shorts are low rise but it is easy to adjust the rise if you wanted a higher rise. You can also do the ruffle hack, like the ones pictured by following this blog.

Patterns For Pirates Linen Loungers

Sizes: XXS- Plus 3X. There is also a kids version called Little Loungers

Size Made:  XL

Drafted For:  5′ 5″

Pattern Options:  Curved hem, shorts length, cuffed shorts, button tab, bermuda length, capri length, pant length, elastic waistband, yoga waistband, back pocket, exposed front pocket, slat pockets, grommets and tie option, faux fly

Intended Fit:  Loose, Relaxed fit

Options Made:  Curved hem, shorts length, back pocket, elastic waistband, faux fly

Fabric Used:  Navy Stretch Twill

Comments:  I found that these have a mid rise fit. Basting your back pockets on first with help achieve the desired placement. The instructions include a faux fly but I did mine the way I’m used to.What I did was with right sides together, sew around the faux fly using a 1/4in seam allowance until you get to the curved crotch, then switch to 1/2in seam allowance.  Clip all of the curves, then turn right side out.  Fold fly over the front of the shorts, then top stitch the fly down and around the fly like shown in pattern.  That’s it!  

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A Ruffled Golf Skirt

I found a cute skirt from Flirtee and decided to recreate it.

  • Left: Pinspiration Right: Recreation

I found a few patterns in my collection for my Inspiration. Both patterns I measured medium and they’re both FREE!

A good starting point is the Patterns for Pirates Peg Leg shorties and the Patterns for Pirates pencil skirt. Shorts under my skirt makes me feel much more secure on the course. I made the entire skirt out of Phee Fabrics Tricot. It is a light, airy, antimicrobial, and quick drying.

Shorts

Construct your shorties based on the pattern, including hemming, up to the point that you would add the waistband, then put them aside. Important: typically you would not start here but I do this to avoid stitching my bottom flounce piece into the hem.

Pencil Skirt

To achieve the added flair to the pencil skirt:

  • I drafted three 4″ flounces to go across the back of the skirt. If you have not done a flounce before, think of it like a little circle skirt but you cut a line through one side of it. Drafting flounces takes a little math and I will explain it in the next paragraph.
  • After cutting the flounces, stitch them down using a stretch stitch and following the chalk lines. The top of the flounces should be “upside down”  
  • After the flounces are stitched down, serge the skirt together. Important: you want the flounces to go slightly into the side seem so they will look like part of the back of the skirt.

Flounce Drafting

  • Figure out the point that you want the flounces to start on the garment and measure. Side seam to side seam horizontally is what I chose.
  • Repeat this step 3 times and mark your lines on the back skirt panel using a ruler and chalk pen.
  • How wide do you want the flounce? Once you know that, divide that number by 3.14. This will give you the radius needed for a half circle. However, for a full circle (which is what you need) you must divide the result by 2.
  • Use this number to draft the first circle line. 
  • Measure from the point of your first circle cut down (the first circle line is 4″ down to make the flounce 4″ or what width you choose) to the length that you would like, as mentioned above I measured mine to be 4 inches and don’t hem the Tricot because it doesn’t fray.
Example, my target length was 20″. This is how I calculated the radius for a full circle.

And just like that you have your flounces!

Finishing Up

  • Your shorts and skirt should have the side seams are constructed and hemmed at this point.
  • Now you can add the waistband. You will only be using one waistband because the shorts and the skirt will be attached.
  • To add the waistband, you will want to measure it off in quarters and put pins at each quarter point. You will do the same for your skirt. After quartering take your shorties and skirt and clip or pin them all together stretching the waistband (not the skirt or shorties) just enough to make it line up.
  • Now you can serge it all together

Voila you have a ruffled back golf skirt!

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Phee Fabrics is turning 3!

The start of Phee was in 2014. In March of 2017 we made an internet presence, starting with Facebook. Since then we have expanded to Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest, YouTube, TikTok and a blog. Phee Fabrics sources majority of fabrics from the USA, thoroughly tests all fabrics prior to stocking and is housed with industrial air purifiers that filter out 99.99% of airborne particles. Reviewing the last three years has been an interesting ride with some hits, some misses, bonds made and accepting everyone for the things that unify us instead of divide. All of this would be impossible without you. Thank you. Starting on March 13, 2020 we are kicking off our celebration. So look across our platforms for some giveaways from gracious sponsors with daily giveaways

New Horizon Designs Prize: 2 patterns, 2 winners plus 30% off from 3/14 – 3/17. Prize winners: Angie Swartz Griggs and Shannon Elizabeth Rice

Violette Field Threads Prize: shop credit plus 30% off 3/14 – 3/16. Prize winner: Kelsey Garnhart

Hey June Handmade Prize: one pattern plus 20% off til March 20, 2020. Prize winner: Kim Korstjens

Sofiona Designs Prize: shop credit plus 20% off til March 20, 2020. Prize winner: Roxann King

Madalynn Prize: 8228 Simplicity Pattern. Prize winner: IG name SewBeachLife. Paying it Forward to a different entry.

Twig + Tale Prize: $ 25 shop credit. Prize winner: Nichole Langmeyer

Swim Style Prize: 2 patterns. Prize winner: Jenifer Kae

Patterns for Pirates Prize: $20 shop credit. Prize winner: Christina Thelen

Designer Stitch Prize: $25 shop credit. Prize Winner: Erin Cooper

Lowland Kids Prize: $25 shop credit. Prize Winner: Jessica Hermansen

Striped Swallow Designs Prize: 3 patterns. Prize winner: Carrie Giarrusso Davitz

Friday Pattern Company Prize: one pattern. Prize Winner: Jan Crawford

Sonia Estep Designs Prize: Two $20 shop credits, 2 winners plus 30% off patterns using code CONGRATSPHEE from 3/16 – 3/20. Prize winner: Carolyn Miller McGinnis and Em Webber

Shwin Designs Prize: 3 patterns. Prize winner: Jan Crawford

Sinclair Patterns Prize: 2 patterns. Prize winners: Laura Maughan and Danita Courtney

Sew House Seven Prize: $15 shop credit. Prize winner: Alex Harman

Trish Newbery Prize: $15 shop credit. Prize winner: Callie Gable

CKC Patterns Prize: 3 patterns. Prize winner: Julie Earnest

Miko Sewing Patterns Prize: pattern bundle. Prize winner: Rachel Webb

5 out of 4 Prize: $20 shop credit. Prize winner: Jennifer Willman

Winter Wear Designs Prize: 2 patterns. Prize winner: Erika Jessin Pin

DIBY Club Prize: one pattern plus 15% off patterns from 3/24 -3/31. Prize winner: Kelsey Garnhart

If you have used Phee Fabrics to create anything from these designers we would love to see it! Please submit your photos with pattern name, designer and fabric used to customer.service@pheefabrics.com

The celebration begins March 13,2020. Check the newsletter for updates. If you aren’t signed up, you can do so here. To claim your prize please email customer.service@pheefabrics.com no later than March 31,2020.

Thank you for making this all possible

Melissa

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The Month of Free Patterns

During the month of September 2019 the team at Phee focused on free patterns. The only rules were that the pattern had to be free and utilize Phee Fabrics.

Here’s the thing, the team at Phee works extremely hard behind the scenes to bring everyone all the best of their work. Now, we know the quality at Phee is consistent, so you know what you’re going to get. Pattern designers work hard also and a lot of designers draft with their body shapes in mind and adjust the sizing based on their size block. There are very few designers that take multiple body shapes into account. One of the most challenging things for new and frustrating for experienced sewists is to adjust a pattern to their body. Dealing with an awkward fit and then comes in the concept of making a “muslin”. Typically muslin is a type of fabric but it can also be used to refer to the first one you make, a trial of sorts. Through multiple places I see people asking about using a different fabric as a “muslin”, a cheaper or different base. That will result in a different fit (be forewarned). Another thing that draws people in is FREE! The idea of getting something for free is appealing, it gives you a chance to try a pattern designer before purchasing other patterns from them. These are some of the free patterns our dedicated sewists have worked up for you.

Crystal is wearing the Halla Slim fit Dolman with the Poveglia Ribbing. She made a size 6/8 but says that it’s loose and should have made the size 2/4
Jessica is wearing the Harper Cardigan by Sinclair Patterns with the Light Gray Heathered Cozy French Terry.
Stephanie is wearing the Peg Legs from Pattern for Pirates in olive supplex
Mala is wearing the Magnolia Tee by Sonia Estep Designs in Dark Bisque Rayon Spandex. She graded from a size 22 to a size 26
Elizabeth is wearing a Durango Tank by Hey June in the 13 oz. Cherry Rayon Spandex
Addy is wearing the Verona dress by Little Lizard King in Orchid Rayon Spandex. This pattern is drafted for woven but was made in the same size. While slightly larger it will be good for layering a shirt and/or leggings underneath, as well as next spring/summer.
Joelle is wearing the Thankful top by George & Ginger. This is not available on their website and only can be found in the files of their facebook group.

The slouchy beanie was a free tutorial by Bernina
Due to the ease of the pattern and not wanting the shoulders way too wide, she made a size 8, graded to 10 waist and 6 hips. 

Removed an inch above bust and an inch above hem. Size 8 sleeve, removed .5” in the head and an inch at the short sleeve mark.
Nicole is wearing the Agnes Dress by Halla using the navy rayon spandex

If you have any other free patterns that you have used with Phee please email us at customer.service@pheefabrics.com to be added to this blog

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Leggings Party

I’ve wanted to write a leggings comparison blog for FOREVER. I recently had my daughter and knew I wanted to wait until she was out of me to hopefully get the best fit for my post partum body. I used Phee supplex for all of them and 6 different leggings patterns.

https://pheefabrics.com/supplex/

I compiled some info to compare all of the patterns. The calf and thigh circumference are of the pattern pieces and the thigh measurement is taken from 6 inches down the inseam. The waistband height is of the pattern piece minus seam allowances and the width is taken from the center of the pattern pieces.

DIBY Anything But Basic Leggings

Stretch Required: 50%

Size made: 12 + 2.5 inches based on thigh placement

Drafted Height: 5’5

Calf Circumference: 11-3/4

Thigh Circumference: 16-1/4

Waistband Height: Tall: 3-1/8 Short: 2-1/8

Waistband Width: 27-1/4

Pocket Size: No pocket

Extra Options: None

Types of Waistbands: Short/Tall

Dislikes: Crotch and butt curve really flat/wide hip/minimal options

Size Range: 34-67 inch hip

Gusset: None

Comments: There is a very pronounced hip curve that after wearing caused some rippling the waistband also constantly rolled down. If someone had more around their hips I would recommend using this pattern and then using a waistband from another pattern. The ease throughout the legs is really comfortable and DIBY does have the most expansive size range.

Apostrophe My Fit Leggings

Stretch Required: You pick

Size made: Side pocket panel, 24 inch inseam, contour waistband, snug fit

Drafted Height: Custom

Calf Circumference: 14-3/8

Thigh Circumference: 21-1/8

Waistband Height: Contour: 3-1/2

Waistband Width: 25

Pocket Size: 6-1/4×3-1/2

Extra Options: Ruched side/Side panels/pocket/waistband pocket/different waistbands/completely customizable

Types of Waistbands: Elastic/Yoga/Contour/Back pocket

Dislikes: There isn’t a % of ease given for your measurements so mine didn’t turn out how I like

Size Range: All

Gusset: None

Comments: The directions for how to find your measurements are great and I really appreciated that but I was initially frustrated that the ease isn’t given for the different fits. I chose the snug fit and they are very large around my knees and calves with about a 1:1 ratio. They have a lot of potential and are completely customizable but I don’t know if I have the patience to work them out.

Greenstyle Strides Updated

Stretch Required: 50%

Size made: L cropped length, high rise

Drafted Height: 5’8

Calf Circumference: 9-3/4 in (capri line)

Thigh Circumference: 15-5/8

Waistband Height: High: 5 in Mid: 3-3/4

Waistband Width: 28-1/4

Pocket Size: 7-1/2×4

Extra Options: Cross Cuff/Waistband pocket/5 lengths

Types of Waistbands: Mid/High

Dislikes: No thigh/calf measurements. I would add a little calf ease next time.

Size Range: Hip 32-50 sizes are being expanded

Gusset: Oval

Comments: Strides have always been my go to I love the accent piece on the back. Through trying all the different patterns and seeing the different amounts of ease throughout the strides are a pair that I would wear for working out but would pick something a little more relaxed for everyday wear. I do think the back on these is the most flattering especially for those with long butt problems like me LOL.

P4P Peg Legs

Stretch Required: 50%

Size made: XL waist L hip low rise, 1″ longer than capri length, contour waistband

Drafted Height: 5’6

Calf Circumference: 10-1/2

Thigh Circumference: 17-1/8

Waistband Height: Contour front: 7 in Regular: 3-1/2 in

Waistband Width: 25-1/4

Pocket Size: 6×4

Extra Options: Side pocket/colorblocking/waistband pocket/4 lengths

Types of Waistbands: Mid/High/Contoured

Dislikes: No print layout

Size Range: Hip: 33-58

Gusset: Oval with more pronounced oval on one side

Comments: Overall this pattern has some amazing options for being a free pattern. Lots of people really love the contoured waistband and choose to add that on to their legs of choice. I don’t love how the contour waistband goes down so far in the front, possibly from pregnancy being so fresh, I think it accentuates that part of me. This pattern did provide the best front crotch curve for my body and the back is pretty flattering too. For anyone’s first pair of leggings I think this is a great starting point and it’s FREE.

5004 Ninjas

Stretch Required: 50%

Size made: S->M waist L hip mid rise ankle length

Drafted Height: Based on inseam for lengths

Calf Circumference: 11

Thigh Circumference: 17-3/4

Waistband Height: 2

Waistband Width: 28

Pocket Size: Waistband pocket 2-1/4×3-3/4

Extra Options: 4 rise options/7 lengths/key waistband pocket

Types of Waistbands: Fabric or exposed elastic

Dislikes: No waistband options

Size Range: Hip: 34-61

Gusset: Diamond

Comments: I love these pants. They don’t move around AT ALL. I wore them for a really long run and they didn’t chafe or move around at all. I also really enjoy that they have no side seam I think it makes them look more seamless. I would wear these to run everyday, the minimalness of the waistband makes them super easy to wear under my running vest. If I was going to wear them for everyday I would look into adding a contour waistband probably from the strides. This is my second 5004 pattern and I’m not sure why I haven’t made more I love these just as much as the jessie!

Jalie Claras

Stretch Required: 60%

Size made: X ankle length

Drafted Height: Trunk height per size

Calf Circumference: 10-1/4

Thigh Circumference: 15-7/8

Waistband Height: Elastic: 3/4 in Fabric: 2-3/4 in

Waistband Width: 29-1/2

Pocket Size: None

Extra Options: 3 lengths

Types of Waistbands: Elastic or fabric

Dislikes: None

Size Range: Hip: 22-53

Gusset: Triangle

Comments: I love that it includes kids and adults sizes and that there is only one seam in the waistband. Not having any outer leg seam or front seam. The inseam sits forward though because of no front seam. These are SUPER fast to work up and I will definitely be wearing them again.

We all need to take a minute to giggle at my posture in all these side pics sometime’s I’m up straight sometimes I’m still pregnant LOL.

Review

My favorite pants for running were the 5004 Ninjas, I went for a 9 mile run and didn’t have to adjust them at all. I like how the waistband on these is really minimal so when wearing under my running vest I didn’t have any bulkiness. Although I love these for running I wouldn’t wear them for everyday as I don’t think they’re the most flattering. I am curious how they’d look adding the strides waistband too them and if that would help them be ‘cuter’. For my next pair I would like to do the pegs crotch curve, it looks like it fits me the best with the back of the strides. I am really tall and have been pregnant for three years (actually) so my booty is more deflated than it used to be. I think the accent piece on the strides give me the most flattering backside.

The Jalie Claras have a higher required stretch than the other patterns which is something to note and are the only pair that don’t have a from crotch seam. If you find that point usually is irritating for you then definitely try these. They are really comfortable and I will be wearing them again.

Negative ease: When the garment is finished smaller than your body measurement. With the supplex the garment is much smaller than your body measurements because it has such great stretch and recovery. This is a list of the patterns from least to most negative ease so the patterns at the top stretch less to fit you (aren’t as tight) as the patterns towards the end of the list.

Waistband Width Negative Ease Least -> Most

Jalie – 29

Strides – 28-1/4

Ninjas – 28

DIBY – 27-1/4

Pegs – 25-1/4

MyFit – 25

Thigh Negative Ease Least -> Most

MyFit – 21-1/8

Ninjas – 17-3/4

Pegs – 17-1/8

DIBY – 16-1/4

Claras -15-7/8

Strides -15-5/8

Calf Circumference Negative Ease Least -> Most

MyFit – 14-3/8

DIBY – 11-1/4

Ninjas – 11

Pegs – 10-1/2

Claras -10-1/4

Strides – 9-3/4

Crotch curves of all the patterns

I hope this helps!

-Whit

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Feeling a Little Meh(sh)

What inspires you to workout? I wish I could say “I just love it” and don’t need any extra motivation, but alas, that would be one big lie. When it comes to fitness and activity, I know there is an ebb and flow for me….Sometimes my motivation and determination are at a peak and unwavering. Other times I have a laundry list of reasons why “I just can’t” because in reality I just don’t want to.

Like many people, January is a time to renew and I am ready to go – organization, workouts, food prep…It’s all easy, and I’m excited! Then February rolls around, and the honeymoon is over. At that point, all I want is ice cream and sweat pants, but I have one thing that always gets me back in the groove – NEW CLOTHES! This used to mean a trip to the store, but now it means a Facebook search in my favorite fabric and sewing groups for some inspiration.

I decided I wanted some “cool mesh” pants like all the women in my gym classes. Of course my favorite shop, Phee Fabrics had just what I wanted! The black powernet has great stretch and recovery for workout wear without being completely see through. So, off I went pattern hunting and decided to try another Greenstyle Creations pattern, the Inspire tights. They are a basic legging but also have some fun color blocking options. I used a contour waistband from the Patterns for Pirates peg legs to give me a higher waisted option.

The powernet was great for the inserts and there is some hidden powernet in the waistband – it’s like comfortable compression! This stuff HOLDS you in! No rolling waistband or slipping down. I didn’t even need to add elastic to the top, which is perfect for me. I really don’t like the feel of elastic on my waist regardless of fabric and pattern.

Quick tip for color-block sewing that saves me a bunch of time pinning – I get all of my pieces for each leg panel and pin them all at one time. Then I can stitched all at once and if I shave them all pinned together at the them same time it’s easier to see if I have them all in the correct direction (read: less seam ripping!)

I really want for my leggings to be supportive and stretch. The Plum Supplex is gorgeous in person while having incredible stretch and recovery. This material is perfect for squats and stretching (and tested for the entire day after a workout because sometimes I just get busy 😉)

So now I had “motivating pants”, but I needed a whole outfit. This time I wanted to copy a tank I bought years ago. It has a strap across the back that how’s off your back and a front and back scoop neck. I used the P4P essential tank, but instead of using the back piece, I did 2 fronts! I used 85% of the neck and arm openings to create the bands. Then I created a strap for the back and stitched it into the band. Super easy, and it holds the straps up.

The back piece has a little added flair and function. It’s made out of powernet too. Awesome for a hot day or extra sweaty workout.

My motivating outfit worked – I used it as my extra push to get up and workout at 5:45am when but was a balmy 11 degrees! I guess I will need to make another outfit to keep the momentum going…and you know it will be with Phee Fabrics.

Happy stitchin’ and sweatin’

Liz

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