Fitting My Washi Dress

When Phee Fabrics started stocking Art Gallery Fabrics in 100% premium cotton OEKO-TEX certified fabric, I knew it was time to search for a new pattern.  I have a couple of woven dress patterns that I like, (blogged here) but they are quite similar, and I wanted something with a little more detail to showcase the pretty fabric.

One of my sewing friends who also likes dresses, suggested a few pattern companies to me.  She forewarned me that the patterns were not inexpensive, but felt that they were worth the money.  I scrolled through a few companies, and kept coming back to the Made By Rae Washi Dress.  The simple pleats, neck detail, and of course- pockets, spoke to me.

Whenever I get a new pattern (especially for wovens), I like to compare it to a pattern that I know fits me well, to see how similar or different the fit is.  Since wovens don’t have any give, making sure that you’ve got a good fit is very important!  Right away I could tell that this pattern was drafted for a much smaller cup size, so I knew I was going to have to do some work to get a perfect fit.  I traced the bodice and taped the dart together, and held it against my body to see how far off the fit was.  The dart ended up a couple of inches above my bust apex, and the bodice didn’t cover the bottom of my bust.  Sigh!

Since this is kind of a common issue for me with woven patterns, it wasn’t exactly unexpected.  I needed some length between the armscye and the dart, so the simple fix was slashing the bodice front and adding in a 1.5″ wide strip of waxed paper.  I also added 1.5″ length to the pattern back.

I cut out a bodice front and the upper back of the pattern in some cheap fabric and basted it together to check my fit.  I decided another half inch added to the front at the shoulder seam would give me that extra little bit I needed, and cut into my good fabric.  I took some time with my pattern layout, because every sewist knows that if you’re working with a floral fabric, it’s nearly impossible to avoid having flowers on your bust.  And I wanted an intentional placement versus an awkward one! 🙂

The pattern tutorial suggests using interfacing on the front around the U-notch to help keep the corners laying smoothly.  Tracing around the stitch line gave me the perfect shape to iron on to the bodice front.

It also calls for facings at the front and back neckline, and bias trim along the armscyes. But a finished bodice lining is just so much nicer, and would also make it easy to stitch a couple of lines 1/2″ apart across the back to make a casing for my elastic.  To make a bodice lining, cut another bodice front, and cut a bodice back by folding the pattern back 1/2″ below the bottom shirring line marking.  Sew the front and back linings together at the shoulder seams.  Sew the bodice front and dress back pieces together at the shoulder seams.  Place the lining over the dress, right sides together, and stitch around the neckline.  Clip the curves, turn right side out and press.

Then you will need to “burrito roll” the bodice to sew the armscyes.  If you’ve never done the “burrito roll” method, it’s almost magical how it works!  Basically you are rolling the garment up from one side, then flipping the opposite sides over and around (enclosing the rolled portion in the shoulder strap area) and stitching the armscye, then pulling it through.  There are plenty of video tutorials online if you are a visual learner.  Again you will clip the curves, turn the bodice right side out and press carefully.  Stitch the side seams and press.  Turn the bottom edge of the lining under 1/4″ and press.

You’re supposed to do 5 or 6 lines of shirring along the back, to give a nice fitted look.  Since shirring didn’t really sound fun, and wasn’t the look I was going for, I opted to use elastic in a casing.  Keeping your fabric smooth, stitch the bodice back lining to the dress back along the bottom two marked shirring lines.  This will give you the casing for the back elastic. To determine the proper length of elastic, measure your body around the bottom of the bodice.  Divide the measurement in two, and use 3/8″ wide cotton swimwear elastic, marked at that length.  Thread the elastic through, stitching it in place at both ends.  Then stitch the bodice front lining in place by stitching in the ditch along the front seam line.

The interior back bodice:

The interior front bodice:

Can you see why lining the bodice is worth the effort?  There is just something so satisfying about a garment that is as nicely finished on the inside as it is on the outside!  You can always feel proud about making a quality garment that will last!

I love my new dress!  And it has pockets!  It’s cool and comfortable, and can be layered under a jacket or cardigan for year round use.

Using a blind hem stitch on my sewing machine was the only way to do the hem.  It’s a nice deep hem, folded under an inch, zigzagged and pressed, then folded under another two inches.  It reminds me of the type of sewing my beloved grandmother used to do. ❤  High quality fabrics, quality finishes, and a nice deep hem.

Now that I’ve got my pattern perfected, I need to decide on some more Art Gallery Fabric so that I can make another dress!

As always, I only give my honest opinion.  After all, my post represents me! 🙂  Thank you for reading and sharing my love of sewing, patterns, fabric, and pattern hacking.❤

November 2, 2019August 18, 2022 by Melissa Cipriano Categories: Art Gallery, Fabric TypesTags: Art Gallery Fabric, clothing, dress, Dresses, Fabric Types, pattern hacks, style, Techniques, Women, woven fabric 2 Comments

Out with the Winter, In with the Summer

Schools out for most and summer is fast approaching. Here in the high desert, we are already expecting temperatures in the 100s, and its barely June. My sewing room just got a fresh update with a fresh coat of paint and wood laminate flooring (previously carpet) and it feels good to say the least. The pool is going up in the back yard and that means I need a new swim suit. In comes Phee Fabrics Tricot! Ever since I got it, I have absolutely adored the Neon Coral Tricot. Its so vibrant in color, and such a soft material for swim suits or sports bras! Have you seen all of the new colors that have been stocked in the last couple months? That Berry Tricot is on my list for my next swim suit. For the first though, I will be sticking to my first Tricot love, Neon Coral.

Now the hard part, finding the perfect pattern. I scrolled through my folder of patterns (not nearly as many are used as they should be) and came across the Riptide Reversible Shorties by 5 out of 4 Patterns. I had made these before, but skimped out on my effort level and didn’t actually put the side drawstrings in. The pattern itself has great coverage and has the option for reversible or not. I decided to challenge myself, and not take short cuts here (as I am really trying to do in my sewing these days-this will be a constant theme for these bottoms). Making them reversible I chose the Navy Tricot as my secondary color. 

The pattern went together very well until I got to the dreaded ‘channels’ for the drawstrings. I marked them and then contemplated skipping them and just attaching the waist band. Luckily, I had the self discipline to just put the project down and come back to it when I felt like doing the channels. That turned out to be 2 days later. I marked the channels with a chalk line and sewed it with a straight stitch on my sewing machine. Afterwards, the pattern recommends to cut a hole in the channel, instead I just seam ripped between my two channels.

My turner made turning the ties easy, and also aided in pulling them through their channels! After putting all of the ties in and basting, it was time for the waist band. The pattern calls for wonder tape, but I don’t like wonder tape, so I didn’t have any to use. I went back and forth on hem tape, but decided to just pin it because that former sounded like a mess.

 

I started out with top stitching the top part of the waist band so that I would know where the inner seam should be. Then, I folded up the unsewn edge towards the inside of the waist band. I continued around and this this ‘false hem’ on the whole waist band. After that I folded the hem and band down and replaced the pins to pin this to the shorts (with the inner serged edge on the inside facing up. Then I was ready to top stitch and my shorties were done!

I put together a Key West with the Navy Powernet as the inner bra for some added support. Now I am ready to hit the pool and cool down in the summer!

This post contains affiliated links. At no cost to you, I get an earning that helps support my hobby of sewing and blogging to show you my makes (= Thanks for your support! Links to fabric: Navy Powernet,Navy Tricot, Neon Coral Tricot

June 2, 2019June 15, 2020 by Melissa Cipriano Categories: TricotTags: clothing, Swimwear, Tanks, Women Leave a comment

Whatever “Twill” Be…

Yes I know, corny right?? 🎵Que’ sera, sera🎶 lol. That’s kinda how I felt this month. I’ve been out of the loop a bit, and I kinda lost my sew-jo. So when we were asked to create something with new fabrics I thought,” oh no 😥 not woven!” But the colors are so pretty I have to try. Let me tell you, this stuff is nothing like any stretch twill I’ve seen before. It has almost a silky quality to it. Definitely not the stiff stuff like khaki pants I had in my mind lol! But now I’m even more worried… This is beautiful and I’m going to ruin it, the pattern I have is to simple, this is not going to work!

I chose the Half Moon Atelier Roma skirt as my base….

Mostly because it was cute and super simple. I haven’t made anything but bowties with wovens in forever. And because it would be simple to alter. Most woven patterns dont fit my curvy hind end so I knew I would need to tweak a few things. So the pattern goes to a 49 in hip😖. Yea not happening I needed to add 10 inches to that. I also wanted an elastic waist because let’s face it, I’m just not ready to tackle fitting a 59 in hip and a 43in waist!

I added my adjustments and whipped up my skirt. (Seriously, like 30 minutes mostly doing the elastic lol) and ugh I didn’t like it, or so I thought….. what do you think?

Sometimes simple is not so bad after all. 🎵Whatever “twill” be, will be!🎵 TTFN!

Here’s my Affiliate link if you choose to use it! Thank you!

https://pheefabrics.com/stretch-twill/?aff=8

May 30, 2019June 15, 2020 by katiekatkreations Categories: Fabric Types, Stretch TwillTags: clothing, Fabric Types, Skirts, Stretch Twill, Women Leave a comment

Wandering Back Into Wovens

When I first learned to sew, it was with woven fabric.  I think most people start out using wovens either because that was the type of fabric their Mothers and Grandmothers used and taught them with, or because they gravitated toward garment making after learning to quilt.  I made myself plenty of cotton woven clothes in my teens, and so many pretty dresses for my daughter when I was in my twenties.  I also recall making a bathrobe for my husband (with tons of piping) and a dress shirt for my son (all those buttons and buttonholes!)  But sewing with knits seems so much easier and forgiving, so I had completely switched over to knits and didn’t look back.

Then two things converged that has me wandering back into wovens.  Phee Fabrics started carrying stretch twill, which intrigued me.  A local sewing store held The Tunic Bible workshop, which sounded sort of fun.  And it would have been fun, but it was way out of my budget range, so I put it out of my mind.  But then I started seeing the dresses the women made at the workshop on a Facebook sewing group I belong to.  And I needed the pattern!

It’s totally my style- a simple and straight-forward design, yet with the opportunity to personalize.  So I looked for “The Tunic Bible”, by Sarah Gunn and Julie Starr at a couple of local stores and neither had it in stock.  I probably should have driven to the closest bookstore, but it was easy enough to order the book online.  ISBN 9781617453564.  The pattern is included in the book as two large copy shop sized pages printed front and back.  I traced the basic tunic and all the placket options in my size, dug through my 25 to 30 year old stash of wovens for fabric to use as my muslin, and got started.

The book is kind of a “look book” with lots of photographs of the tunics to give you inspiration, and includes directions for basic tunic construction and for each of the placket options.  It recommends finishing your seams with French seams to give your tunic a more couture finish.  I chose to use flat felling on my shoulder seams, as it seems easier/cleaner to me.

I made a sleeveless tunic length top with a wide split placket as my first muslin, and like the basic look.  However, it was immediately obvious to me that it is too wide across the shoulders in the front.  Frankly, it’s too wide even if I were adding sleeves, even though I had traced on the sleeveless line.  Despite yoga class and trying to have good posture, years of deskwork and hunching over a computer have taken their toll and given me forward rotated shoulders.  While wearing it, I placed a row of pins in my top where I wanted the shoulders to end.  After taking it off, I laid the pattern on my shirt and marked my new cut lines adding in the seam allowance.

Thinking that I had solved my fit problem, I moved on to a dress length muslin using the V-neck placket.  Although the pattern includes all the plackets, the tunic is NOT marked with all the neckline cuts.  You are expected to match up the center lines and shoulder seams and trim away the excess fabric on the front and back bodice after sewing on the facing.  If you are an experienced sewist, it’s easy enough to do, although it can feel nerve-wracking to not know for sure that you are cutting it properly.  This could be a bit overwhelming to someone that is just learning to sew.

Trying on the dress revealed my second fit issue.  The bust darts are not in the proper place for my body.  I am longer than average from shoulder point to bust apex.  This fit issue should not have been a surprise to me, since I frequently have to adjust patterns because they cut into my armpits.  Since knits are so forgiving and most knit patterns don’t have bust darts, I didn’t really think about the bust dart.  As you can see in my dress, the bust darts are way too high and too far apart.  Since that puts the fullest part of the bodice above my bustline, there is a bit of pooling there.

So I did a bit of research online to figure the best way to lower a bust dart.  I had determined the amount I needed to lower the bust dart by measuring from where the dart fell on my body, down to the bust apex, and ended up with an inch difference.  I also decided to make my bodice a size smaller, since my measurements put me between sizes and I had traced out the larger size.  A couple of sites recommend just cutting out the bust dart section of your pattern, moving it down to where you want it, and filling in the cut out section with paper.  Since I always keep my master patterns intact and trace out the size I need, I decided to move my pattern piece up an inch on the master pattern and trace the bust dart and smaller size bodice.

I finally felt confident enough with the pattern to cut into my navy stretch twill and make a dress.  I loved the look of the wide split placket on my top, so decided to use it again.  The Tunic Bible recommends using petersham ribbon or bias tape for trimming your tunic, but since I had a vision of the look I was going for, I had ordered three colors of stretch twill and made my own “bias tape”.  Here’s where the beauty of stretch twill comes into play.  On my muslin top and dress, I had cut strips of fabric on the bias to trim the arm openings, etc.  Since stretch twill has spandex in it, and 10% stretch, I didn’t have to cut my trim on the bias!  I used Wonder Tape (a wash-away double stick tape for fabric) to hold my trim in place on the placket while I top-stitched it, and let me tell you- it is a total game changer.  I used to pin all my trims or pockets in place, then sew and hope that things didn’t shift or get a weird bubble from the pins.  Wonder Tape is awesome and so much easier.  I highly recommend trying it.

I love how my first dress turned out!  It reminds me of a dress my Grandma used to have when I was a little girl.  She was rather stylish, and very beautiful, and an all-around wonderful person.  ❤  I miss her so, and wish I had a photo of her in the dress I remember.  I swear a photo exists, but my Mom didn’t recall it.  Sigh.  Anyway, I have a beautiful new dress that reminds me of her, and I will wear it all summer long!

I decided to go with a solid color for my next dress, and used the ruffle neckline.  This is an unusual choice for me because I don’t “do” frilly.  Lady-like, yes.  Girly and frilly, nope!  I’ve put ruffles on the bummies I made for my grand-daughter, but what looks cute on a baby or toddler doesn’t equate to looking cute on me!  I don’t know what possessed me to try it, but I actually like the end result.  The coral stretch twill is so bright and summery, and it looks like something I would wear to a cocktail party.  (If I were one of those people who throws or gets invited to a dressy cocktail party, which I’m not. :-))  But I feel pretty in it and will probably wear it to my nephew’s wedding this summer.

I’m happy to have wandered back into wovens, and all it took was the intrigue of a new fabric and a few Facebook posts to do it!

May 30, 2019June 15, 2020 by Melissa Cipriano Categories: Fabric Types, Stretch TwillTags: clothing, dress, Dresses, Fabric Types, Stretch Twill, style, tunic, Women 2 Comments

The Twill Skirt That Could

Do you ever just jump into a pattern because it is a new designer (to you), pushes you to use a fabric or technique that is long-lost in using so many knits (ahem, wovens!) and you think it might just replace a favorite wardrobe item that might be worn out or “grown out of”?

I had this favorite brownish khaki-type skirt from Old Navy that I LOVED. This thing could be dressed up and worn out to drink and dance or dressed down to wear with flip-flops and a tee for a summer BBQ with friends and family. It looked like it should be a mini-skirt but sat low on the hips to provide plenty of coverage to not over-expose while acting care-free.

Kids happened. My favorite staple no longer fit the way I loved and let’s be honest, putting kids in and out of their car seats is just not a good idea with a shorter skirt. I have spent years wanting another fun skirt, with pockets, that is structured enough to fit like a denim or khaki skirt but still moves like a knit for daily like chasing two littles.

Enter the Sew a Little Seam Linden. I picked this pattern because it had a very inclusive size range and comes with both shorts and skirt pattern pieces and LOTS of options from structured knit to Chino to jean skirt details. With a waist and hip measurement both of 48″ can be really difficult because I am often right at the top, if not off of, many size charts.

I haven’t made a woven anything in forever so I was hesitant but the newly stocked stretch twill from Phee Fabrics offers the beautiful structure of a woven with the forgiveness of a knit. I picked the charcoal as the coral is a little bright for everyday and the white, well, I have kids and animals.

For my first round with the Linden I stripped the options to an elastic waist, no drawstring, sloped pockets and the shortest length. PSA – Don’t hold the pattern pieces up to you to decide if that is the right length for your needs. with 5/8″ x 2 hemming allowance it got short reeeeal fast!

I am glad I have made items with pockets because I feel like it could have had a few more notches to help align the pocket pouches with the front pieces but once that was situated the rest of the assembly went quick! I am looking forward to seeing how this fast-drying woven with the perfect touch of stretch will perform as a swim-cover skirt for playing on my stand-up paddle board.

After Linden round one I can see this as a pattern I will make again and spent the time to explore the more intimate details like welt or decorative jean-style pockets or belt loops for a polished look with a few size adjustments and the next length!

Pattern: Sew a Little Seam Women’s Linden Shorts & Skirt PDF Pattern

Skirt: Stretch Twill in Charcoal

Shirt: GreenStyle Creations Green Tee in Orchid Rayon Spandex from Phee Fabrics

 

May 27, 2019June 15, 2020 by ocrwifelife Categories: Stretch TwillTags: Charcoal, clothing, Stretch Twill, Women 1 Comment

Tricot – It’s not tricky, tricky, tricky, tricky

A year ago I had never heard of Tricot – in fact I had not heard of most of the fabrics that @pheefabrics carries and what they are used for. Today, I would say I am a bit of a fabric snob. Sewing a garment takes time, and my time is worth money and I am not willing to use a poor quality fabric. Even the best of patterns are only as good as the fabric you use, IMO.

There has been a bunch of talk about Supplex, powernet and Rayon Spandex (my ride or die for everyday, everything for the whole family) from @pheefabrics but there is a new(ish) kid on the block and their name is Tricot!

So lets break it down. What is Tricot?

• a nylon/spandex blend
• moisture wicking
• antimicrobial
• 4 way stretch with a decent weight of 9.5oz -11.5oz
• Iron on vinyl can be added to them
• Fabrics are from the USA

Tricot reminds me of the feeling and look of swimsuits (check back next month to see what I made), but I wanted to show how versatile it can really be for everyday clothing I will wear all summer – day and night! Since @pheefabrics has so many beautiful colors to chose from, you are sure to find something for your next project.

Confession – I am not a huge fan of shorts. Years of having them ride up my thighs turned me off but I am coming to terms with it and when I made my first pair of Heat Wave Hot Pants from George + Ginger Patterns. You can say it was it was love at first wear! I just had to have a pair of them in the new Navy Tricot and they are summer nautical perfection! I used the tall waistband and pockets – yesssssss! These shorts sew up really quick and have a polished fit from the darts on the front and the back.

So what to wear them with? How about my fave Greenstyle Green Tee? This one is blue and white matte stripe nylon/spandex that @pheefabrics carried last year. I knotted it up to show off the high waist on the shorts and I can see wearing this outfit to the park or brunch any day.

 

I love the look of yellow and navy so I paired it with the top I used for my costume I wrote about on the blog last year. The yellow is also tricot from Phee but the color is no longer in stock. A few accessories and I am feeling all the retro vibes in this outfit ✌

I still had some of the Navy Trciot left and I have been threatening to make the George + Ginger Road Trip Bodysuit since the pattern released but had not yet even cut my size let alone made one! I made a tiny change and cut a V-shape down the center to add a panel of Navy Powernet and my Pinspiration is brought to life.

Pinspiration

Even with all of the bindings, the fabric was super easy to sew. It is a little slippery, yet it did not slip and slide on any of my machines. There really are not “tricks” to working with this high quality fabric! Just be prepared to fall in love with Tricot.

Happy sewing!

Liz

PS- If you love Phee Fabrics as much as I do, please use the  affiliate links in this blog to shop. I will receive a small commission (at no extra cost to you!) I can’t wait to keep sharing my adventures in sewing all of these incredible fabrics and look forward to hearing about yours!

 

May 17, 2019August 18, 2022 by Elizabeth De Virgilio Categories: Fabric Types, TricotTags: Bodysuits, clothing, Fabric Types, Tricot, Women 2 Comments