It all started with my run for cold lululemon vest. I wear it all the time, but I really wanted black, as mine is purple. I started with the Twig + Tale Trailblazer Vest, as the lines were perfect for what I was after.
Materials Used
- Phee Fabrics Stretch Twill in black
- Phee Fabrics Supplex in black
- Hobbs Thermore Batting – This batting is low loft and can be stitched up to 9” apart, which makes it great for this project, and was originally created for quilted clothing. It’s also a poly batting so is perfect for what I was after.
- Foldable Elastic
- Enough for armholes, and the length of the zipper times 2.
Sizing
I looked at the finished measurements of the pattern to determine my sizing since I knew I was adding a stretch on the sides. I went with the size that was closest to my measurements.
Hacking Pattern Pieces
I highly suggest doing the non-curved back version, as I had to do a lot of hacking to get just the back piece to dip down a little. The curves of my back are not in line with the pattern’s back. When I make another one, I will be doing the straight bottom. Using the straight bottom will also make hacking the side a lot easier.
Using the front side and back side, mark the seam allowance at the armcye. Match these 2 pieces up. Since I used a stretch fabric, I pulled the hem of my pieces to overlap more. I wanted the edges where the side meets up with the front and back to be more parallel to the grain. You also need to add a hem either before cutting, or extending past the bottom SA.
Acronyms Used
- RST: right sides together
- SA: seam allowance
Cut
- Front: 2 exterior, 2 lining (stretch twill)
- Back: 2 exterior, 2 lining (stretch twill)
- Collar: 1 exterior (stretch twill), 1 lining (supplex)
- Side: 2, using new side piece (supplex)
I didn’t do this, but after wearing mine the first time all day, I realized that I should have trimmed the armhole seams off. Learn from my mistake.
Assembly
Before you start, read through all instructions, since this was my first time doing this, there are some steps that could be done in a different order. If you’re an experienced sewist, use your gut, as I know I will be doing it in a different order next time, but I just haven’t wrapped my head around how to go about it.
Pin the front to the batting, making sure to keep everything flat. Baste around the outside within the SA.
Trim batting to line up with the edges of the front. Repeat with other front piece, back and collar.
Quilt the exterior to the interior within the max distance for your batting. I used a triple straight stitch to quilt mine since there is some stretch in the twill, and I wanted to be able to move freely.
Sew shoulder seams of exterior, and attach the collar.
Attach zipper with a basting stitch.
Sew front and back lining pieces together at the shoulders.
Hem side pieces. Don’t be like me and forget how much you added for your hem, write it down. Trying to figure it out was torture.
Pin and baste the side pieces to the back (exterior) RST, starting at the notches and working your way towards the armcye and hem.
Pin lining back bottom (hem) to the exterior back bottom RST, keeping sides out of the way. Stitch together using pattern’s SA, making sure it lines up with the hems of the sides.
Understitch the SA to the lining, starting at least ½” from the side seam. If your hem on the back curves, clip SA, along the curve before understitching.
Tuck sides between the 2 back pieces (exterior and lining), so that backs are RST. Fold SA from the bottom towards the lining. Pin and stitch side seams. Trim SA, then pull it right side out. Press seams.
Flip the front exterior and lining pieces so that they are RST, making sure not to twist the shoulder seams, meeting the hems together. Pin the hem, flipping the bottom of the zipper out of the way, and stitch.
Understitch the SA to the lining from the side seam to at least ½” from center front.
With front pieces RST, pin the side to the front exterior and baste. Work in the same manner as you did the back, to complete the side seam, making sure to turn the SA toward the lining. Trim SA, clip curves, turn right side out, and press.
Pin and baste shoulder exterior and lining together along the armscye. If you didn’t remove the seam allowance from the armcye, do that before basting.
Smooth front lining over to the zipper. Pin and baste in place. I used wonder tape to help with easing the lining to the front.
Match the neckline seam of the lining to the SA on the exterior collar. Pin and baste together. This will be covered with the collar lining, but will help hold everything in place until then. You won’t be able to get right up to the zipper, and that’s okay.
Attach the zipper, stitching through all layers. Add foldable elastic along the edge of the zipper to cover the edge and the SA. This will only go to where the lining stops at the neckline. Leave about ½” past the hem of the zipper to fold under. I attached on one side of the elastic to the zipper, then folded it under and pinned in place for the later. You can do it this way, or attach both sides at the same time.
Pin collar lining to the exterior along the top and front, folding bottom of collar up at the bottom along the zipper. Stitch making sure to stitch along the same stitches you already have from attaching the zipper. If desired, understich the top collar SA to the lining. Turn right side out, and press.
Fold the tail of the foldable elastic up under the zipper towards the inside. Stitch in place and trim any extra.
Pin zipper edge to the lining and top stich from the right side.
Fold collar lining opening under extending just past the seam where the collar meets the neckline. Pin and stitch in the ditch from the right side.
Finish off arm openings with foldable elastic. I slightly stretched as attaching, and this helped to keep everything smooth along the supplex area.
Other things I did
I also hacked some pockets on the front, but they are really small, so I need to figure out better measurements for this. On top of that, I added a windflap to the inside, but my measurements were completely off, so I didn’t share this in my tutorial either.
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